Friday, July 25, 2025

First Season of the Southern Mani Archaeological Project!

In May 2025, under the auspices of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Lakonia, with a permit through the Canadian Institute in Greece, the Southern Mani Archaeological Project (SMAP) initiated pedestrian field survey in the area of Porto Kagio on the southwestern coast of the Mani peninsula. SMAP is directed by Drs. Chelsea Gardner (Acadia University), William Parkinson (Field Museum / University of Illinois at Chicago), and Rebecca Seifried (University of Massachusetts-Amherst), and during this initial pilot season we recorded material dating from the prehistoric period through the time of Turkish occupation, and mapped the Achilleio fortification. The following is a blog post written by undergraduate student research assistants Cameron Barnard, Bella MacQuarrie, and Christos Zigoumis.
– Chelsea Gardner and Bill Parkinson

Introduction

In May, a team of 15 gathered in Mani, Lakonia – in the southern Peloponnese – for the first season of the Southern Mani Archaeological Project. With funding from SSHRC, the goal of SMAP is to better understand the southern Mani peninsula’s history, landscape use, and resource exploitation as well as the relationship between southern Lakonia and the wider eastern Mediterranean region from a diachronic perspective. The team was made up of the three project directors; Dr. Mo Snyder as geological field supervisor and their student, Bella MacQuarrie; a lab supervisor; two photogrammetrists; four ethnographers led by Dr. Manos Spyridakis from the National and Kapadostrian University in Athens; and three student assistants. The students engaged in pedestrian survey and collection of a 0.5 km2 area of interest (see Figure 1), discovering pottery sherds from the Neolithic up to the early modern period. At the same time, Dr. Snyder and Bella conducted daily fieldwork as part of an ongoing project to map the geology of the Mani Peninsula.

Figure 1. Image of study area of interest.

Fieldwork

The day began at 8:15AM, when everyone would jump in the cars to drive to site. Once there, a quick briefing would occur and we would go over the location(s) being surveyed and conduct a daily safety check. With pedestrian survey, every day was different! One day, it would be easy walking across rocky beaches or overgrown terraces, and others it would be breaking through thorn bushes and large spiderwebs down the side of the mountain (see Figure 2).

Figure 2. Dr. Gardner in the field.

At times, the visibility was so poor we could not see the ground at all. Each unit surveyed was unlike the one before it. When ceramics or tile were found, they were counted, weighed, and bagged (see Figure 3). Backpacks would grow heavier throughout the day as ceramic samples were collected. When the fieldwork was over, the team would return to the hotel / base of operations, where the collected ceramics were washed and left to dry. Then the lab manager, Dr. Shannon Dunn (Bryn Mawr College), would sort and group the ceramics in each unit (based on time period, material, shape, etc.) and they would be entered into the database. The students would then photograph each group and upload the details on the database as well. Other skills the students learned during the season in Greece include georeferencing, ceramic analysis, and artifact cataloguing.

Figure 3. Team members (including Dr. Gardner and Cameron Barnard) counting sherds for the unit.

Results

The amount of material discovered far exceeded expectations, with the total count reaching approximately 1,200 individual sherds. Although many ceramic fragments were small and non-diagnostic, other pieces, such as rims, bases, handles, and glazed pieces can be diagnostic of different chronological periods (see Figures 4-6). The majority of these diagnostic pieces were found in concentrated areas, such as around buildings, above the beach, and under over-hanging rocks. This pattern possibly suggests that these ceramics had washed down from higher up the mountain, where buildings or a settlement could have been. This concentration of material is even more impressive since only ~10% of the 0.5 km2 area of interest was surveyable; the rest of the landscape was inaccessible due to steep hills, dilapidated terraces, and dense thorny bushes. The team will head back to Greece later this year to review the ceramics with experts who study different time periods.

Figure 4. Diagnostic ceramic pieces, such as rims and bases.

Figure 5. Ceramic handles.

Figure 6. More diagnostic ceramic pieces.

Structures

The survey area proved not only to be rich in artefacts, but also in the number of structures and anomalies we were able to rediscover. One day, we found a rock-cut cistern (Figure 7) – which may be ancient – as Medieval cisterns are usually constructed of stone blocks rather than rock-cut, which was a surprise and further attests to continued human occupation of this area. Our LiDAR map showed this feature, but we had initially assumed it to be a sinkhole, so avoided it. It was only when the geological team approached it (thinking it was a sinkhole) that we made this discovery, showing that it is important to have many specialists on one team for the study of a specific area.

Figure 7. Rock cut cistern with view of the landscape and sea, immediately behind is the rock wall.

Near this cistern we also found graffiti cut into the exposed bedrock which consists of names, symbols, and dates (mostly 1950’s) which was convenient to us who wanted to know how old the graffiti was (Figure 8).

Figure 8. One graffito of a Greek last name.

Further down between two remas (dried riverbeds) appeared to be a large fortification wall with terraced walls inside gradually going down in elevation (Figure 9). The terraced walls were quite ordinary as most of the survey area had them, even if they were overgrown. But the wall was completely out of the ordinary. It was constructed of relatively small stones with no mortar or binding material in between and remained to a height of about four or five feet. It may have stood taller at one point as there was rockfall in most places, which might suggest that the wall may have at one point in history served a defensive purpose. But that doesn’t align with the shoddy construction and lack of evidence found within the walls, but there could be artefacts buried beneath the later terraced walls.

Figure 9. The rock wall.

A few days after this, Dr. Rebecca Seifried and student assistant, Christos Zigoumis, had the opportunity to explore a ruined structure which the locals referred to as “Frankoklisi” (Frankish church). This toponym excited the both of them since the Frankish presence in the Peloponnese lasted a comparatively short amount of time during which the ruling Frankish class constructed characteristically mediaeval western churches in such a foreign land. The Frankish presence in Mani is poorly understood and few remains of them are even known to exist here. As the two came upon “Frankoklisi” and scaled the remains of its walls, they quickly came to the realization that it was certainly not Frankish, or even Byzantine (Figure 10). They were unable to find an apse, which is an integral part in all churches of this period, and the entrance way was about nine feet wide; absurd for the 12×12 feet dimensions of the whole structure. Dr. Seifried suggested that it might have been a mosque or hammam, due to the Achilio fortress lying just up the mountain. This was an Ottoman construction and the easiest way to get from the sea to Achilio might have been to dock a ship at the beach where “Frankoklisi” is situated, where a path to the fortress may have been.

Figure 10. Birds eye view of ”Frankoklisi”.

Geology

The Geological Survey permit covers the archaeological site as well as the rest of the Mani Peninsula, offering a more comprehensive understanding of the area’s geological history.  Daily fieldwork involved traversing the landscape to map bedrock exposures, documenting structural features, collecting rock samples, and interpreting the site’s geological history through both in-field observations and post-survey data analysis (Figure 11, 12).

Lithological samples were taken of each representative mappable unit; these samples will be processed in the Acadia Petrographic lab and analyzed. Lithological samples will either be cut hand-samples or made to thin sections, offering further classification and a more comprehensive guide to understanding the geology of the Mani Peninsula.

The outcome of this work is to create a detailed 1:50,000 bedrock geology map of the Mani Peninsula, as the most recent map of the area is from 1984. Although the previous map is comprehensive, it does not trace key marker metalimestone beds that are of interest for archaeological research on the peninsula.

Figure 11. Bella standing amongst an impressive coastal outcrop.

Figure 12. Dr. Snyder standing on top of a rugged rock face.

Cameron Barnard, Acadia University, BA Honours Classics and Biology (2025); University of Waterloo MA Anthropology (2027 anticipated).
Bella MacQuarrie, Acadia University, BSC Honours Geoscience (2025), MSC Geology (2027 anticipated).
Christos Zigoumis, Carleton University, BA Honours Greek and Roman Studies (2027 anticipated).

Wednesday, July 2, 2025

Le circuit cycladique et crétois 2025 du CIG a été une fois de plus un succès! / The CIG’s Cycladic Island and Crete 2025 Circuit was once again a Success!

 

Et ainsi, la deuxième moitié de l’école d’été cycladique et crétoise du CIG touche à sa fin!

Ces trois semaines ont filé à toute vitesse, avec des étudiants toujours plus avides d’aventure et de savoir alors que nous explorions des musées, des sites archéologiques et les paysages spectaculaires de ces îles incroyables!

Avec Athènes et Paros déjà visitées, les étudiants ont débarqué à Santorini, émerveillés et impatients de découvrir ce que cette île, et encore plus la majestueuse Crète, leur réservaient.

And with that, the second half of the CIG’s Cycladic Island and Crete Summer School is complete!

These three weeks flew by, with students craving more adventure and knowledge as we explored museums, archaeological sites, and the breathtaking landscapes of these incredible islands!

With Athens and Paros already visited, the students disembarked in Santorini with wonder in their eyes, eager to see what this island—and even more so, majestic Crete—had in store.

Santorini a commencé en beauté alors que les étudiants se sont dirigés directement vers la ville d’Oia, déambulant dans ses nombreuses rues pittoresques et capturant de magnifiques photos des célèbres maisons bleues et blanches perchées sur les falaises. Le lendemain a été une journée bien remplie d’exploration à travers l’île. Première étape : le site archéologique d’Akrotiri, où les étudiants ont admiré cette ville ensevelie sous les cendres volcaniques, ses rues complexes et ses bâtiments à plusieurs étages. 

Santorini started with a bang as students headed straight to the city of Oia, wandering through its many picturesque streets and capturing stunning photos of the iconic blue-and-white houses perched on the cliffs. The following day was packed with exploration as we traveled across the island. First stop: the archaeological site of Akrotiri, where students marveled at the volcanic-buried city, its intricate streets, and multi-story buildings.

Après une courte visite de Pyrgos, l’autobus les a déposés à Kamari, où certains ont profité de la plage de sable noir tandis que les plus téméraires ont gravi la montagne pour visiter le site classique et hellénistique de l’ancienne Théra, offrant une vue imprenable sur toute l’île. Ce bref passage à Santorini s’est conclu par une dernière matinée à le musée de Fira Fira avant que les étudiants ne descendent la falaise pour rejoindre le port, prêts à embarquer pour la Crète! 

After a quick visit to Pyrgos, the bus dropped them off in Kamari, where some relaxed on the black sand beach while the more adventurous climbed the mountain to visit the Classical and Hellenistic site of Ancient Thera, which overlooks the entire island. Our short Santorini excursion wrapped up with a final morning at the museum of Fira before students descended the cliffside toward the port, preparing for their ferry to Crete! 

Arriver en Crète donnait l’impression de rentrer à la maison. Ici, les étudiants ont enfin échappé aux foules pour plonger dans ce qui semblait être la Grèce traditionnelle. Les étudiants tremblaient d’excitation alors qu’ils se rendaient à Knossos, où ils ont découvert les célèbres reconstructions d’Evans et débattu des avantages et inconvénients de la reconstitution des sites archéologiques. Ensuite, ils ont admiré les innombrables artefacts du musée d’Héraklion—beaucoup d’entre eux avaient été étudiés en classe mais pouvaient désormais être observés en personne. 

Landing in Crete felt like coming home. Here, students finally escaped the large crowds and stepped into what felt like traditional Greece. The students shook with excitement as they traveled to Knossos, where they encountered the famous reconstructions by Evans and debated the pros and cons of reconstructing archaeological sites. Afterwards, students marveled at the countless artifacts displayed at the Heraklion Museum—many of which they had studied in class but now had the chance to experience in person. 

Le jour suivant, ils ont pris la direction du sud pour explorer le palais de Phaistos, avec un bref arrêt à Gortyne pour voir le célèbre code de lois gravé sur le mur derrière l’Odéon. Le palais de Malia fut une autre visite fascinante, où les étudiants ont parcouru ses ruelles labyrinthiques en posant des questions sur les efforts de conservation et les quartiers excavés. Le moment fort de la journée fut toutefois la traversée en bateau jusqu’à Spinalonga, où les étudiants ont visité l’île vénitienne qui deviendra plus tard tristement célèbre comme colonie de lépreux dans l’histoire moderne. 

The next day, they ventured south to explore the Palace of Phaistos and took a quick peek at Gortyn to see the famous law code inscribed on the wall behind the Odeon. The Palace of Malia was another fascinating stop, with students roaming its labyrinthine streets, asking questions about conservation efforts and the excavated residential quarters. The highlight of the day, however, was a boat trip to Spinalonga, where students visited the Venetian island that later became infamous as a leper colony in modern history.

Après avoir visité tant de sites et de musées, quelques jours loin de l’archéologie les ont revigorés pour la découverte de l’ouest de l’île. Sur la route sinueuse menant à Réthymnon, nous avons fait un arrêt à la grotte de Svedoni, où ils ont admiré ses stalactites et stalagmites tout en observant les chauves-souris qui volaient autour d’eux. Le dîner s’est déroulé dans le charmant village de Margarites, où les étudiants ont observé les potiers façonner leurs œuvres—avant d’acheter presque tout leur stock! Malgré les fortes pluies et le sable du Sahara qui recouvrait l’île, rien ne pouvait les empêcher de randonner dans les gorges d’Imbros. Armés de ponchos, ils ont pris le départ de la randonnée et, rapidement, la pluie a laissé place aux éclats de rire et aux chants alors qu’ils traversaient l’étroite vallée entre deux montagnes. 

After visiting so many sites and museums, a couple of days away from archaeology invigorated them for the western part of the island. On our winding road to Rethymno, we paused to explore the Cave of Svedoni, admiring its stalactites and stalagmites while bats fluttered overhead. Lunch was enjoyed in the charming village of Margarites, where students observed potters crafting their wares—and promptly bought out nearly all their stock! Despite heavy rainfall and Sahara sand blowing in the wind, nothing could stop them from hiking the Imbros Gorge. Ponchos on, they set off from the trailhead, and before long, the rain turned into laughter and singing as they navigated the stunning narrow valley between two mountains.

Notre dernière journée en Crète était empreinte de nostalgie alors que les sacs étaient prêts à être embarqués. Avant le départ du traversier en soirée, les étudiants ont eu le temps de visiter le monastère de Gonia Odigitria, admirant ses nombreuses icônes, avant de découvrir le charmant musée de La Canée. Puis, avant d’arriver au port, ils ont exploré la ville vénitienne, flânant dans son vieux port historique et, bien sûr, dégustant une dernière glace! 

Our last day in Crete was bittersweet as bags were packed. With a late ferry departure, students took the opportunity to visit the Monastery of Gonia Odigitria, admiring its rich collection of icons, followed by a stop at the charming Museum of Chania. Before heading to the port, they explored the Venetian city, strolling through its historic harbor and, of course, indulging in some gelato!

Le trajet de retour vers le Pirée était tout aussi chargé d’émotion. Bien après le coucher du soleil, les étudiants se sont réunis à l’arrière du bateau, regardant l’île disparaître à l’horizon. Ils ont partagé leurs souvenirs, ri en repensant aux moments les plus mémorables, discuté des questions qu’ils n’avaient pas eu le temps de poser sur les sites et musées et, bien entendu, tenté tant bien que mal de masquer leur tristesse face à la fin du voyage. 

The ferry ride back to Piraeus was just as emotional. Long after sunset, students gathered at the back of the boat, watching the island fade into the distance. They reminisced about their experiences, laughed at unforgettable moments, discussed unanswered questions from sites and museums, and—naturally—tried their best to mask the sadness of their adventure coming to an end.

Je ne confirmerai ni ne nierai si des larmes ont coulé lors de ce dernier repas au restaurant… Mais ce que je peux affirmer, c’est que l’édition 2025 de l’école d’été cycladique et crétoise du CIG fut un succès retentissant. Les étudiants ont quitté la Grèce avec l’esprit rempli de nouvelles connaissances—et déjà en train de compter les jours avant leur retour.

À l’année prochaine!

I won’t confirm or deny whether tears were shed at the restaurant that last night. But what I can confirm is that the 2025 edition of the CIG’s Cycladic and Crete Summer School was an overwhelming success. Students left Greece with minds brimming with knowledge—and already counting down the days until their return.

Until next year!