Tuesday, December 29, 2015

My Internship in Athens

I started my internship at the Canadian Institute in Greece in mid-January. When I arrived I was welcomed with rather chilly weather, easing my transition from Canada. It soon warmed up, and I got used to the routine and living in Athens. I was introduced to Jonathan Tomlinson and David Rupp and the current fellow, Sarah Nash. I was welcomed warmly and started my work feeling at ease and hopeful for my three months in Athens.

During my internship at the Institute I had three main tasks, the first of which I spent my first two weeks accomplishing. I was in charge of cataloguing books and helping out in the library. Although this is a common task an intern will have, I had never done it before and learned a lot of new skills. My second task was helping out with preparations for the Institute’s upcoming sale of duplicate books by organizing and cataloguing books and periodicals, and my third was to organize the Institute’s archive room. Working with the archives was interesting to me because I became familiar with permit and application procedures. I learned more about the administrative work behind excavations through organizing documents and going over a variety of corespondence letters. I enjoyed my work at the Institute because not only was I able to learn and explore new skills, I also benefited greatly from the lecture series hosted by the Institute. The lecture series was bi-weekly and ranged from topics about Roman sculpture to Haida weaving techniques. In addition to the Canadian lecture series I attended lectures at a variety of other international schools in Athens. This allowed me to learn about other scholars’ research and projects, but also interact with other archaeologists and make new friends (Darts night helped solidify some of these relationships)

My internship was an amazing experience for me due to the fact that I was able to travel almost every weekend to places all over Greece. I went on these trips with some amazing people I met from the other international schools. Some of the most notable places that I visited were Rhodes, Meteora and Thessaloniki. At each of these places I visitied the key museums and archaeological sites, and I also tried their local foods. I had been to Greece in the past, but was not able to go to these places, and it was truly an awesome expereince to be able to this year. I hope to come back and visit some places that I didn’t get the chance to see during this stay. Greece has so many nice places to visit and explore!

I also was able to explore Athens in a different way than I was ever able to in the past. I explored different districts of Athens and went to local restaurants and cafes. I also visited a variety of smaller museums and sites that are not as touristy as places in the center. Living in a city for a few months provides a different experience than simply visiting as a tourist for a short time. A longer stay allows one to learn the language better and get to know what life is like for Greeks in the city. Athens has felt like home these past few months, and there’s more to see next time I visit.

Even though I am very sad my stay at the Canadian Institute is over and I am leaving Athens, I am very thankful for the experience I had. I especially want to thank Jonathan and David for helping make my stay enjoyable and helping me with the work at the Institute. I also want to thank all the people I have met here for helping me have some of the best three months and giving me memories I won’t forget.

“So far has Athens left the rest of mankind behind in thought and expression that her pupils have become the teachers of the world, and she has made the name of Hellas distinctive no longer of race but of intellect, and the title of Hellene a badge of education rather than of common descent.” (Isocrates, Panegyricus, 50)

Esther Knegt
University of Waterloo

Friday, December 25, 2015

A Romanist in Athens...

I first found out that I was the recipient of the Neda and Franz Leipen Fellowship during an excursion to the British Museum with the Institut für Klassische Archäologie München. I had come to see Munich as the perfect fit for me, both personally and professionally, and I was honestly worried about finding the same sense of purpose or belonging elsewhere. Turns out that I was wrong to worry, because moving to Athens has undoubtedly been one of the best decisions of my life. By taking up residence at the Canadian Institute in Greece (CIG) – one of seventeen foreign archaeological institutes in Athens – I have had the privilege to become part of an active and inspiring community of international scholars, and in this respect alone, there is never a shortage of things to see or do. Whether attending a lecture by a renowned scholar, visiting a museum or archaeological site with fellow enthusiasts, or even just heading to the Red Lion for ‘darts night’, I feel that my time in this academic community has so far been both rewarding and fun. The atmosphere in Athens is incredible and the Greeks I have met warm-hearted and generous, and I look forward to integrating myself more into the local culture.

I would like to share here a little bit about my academic work and experiences since September. Having just barely acquainted myself with Athens, I already needed to return to Germany for the Darmstädter Diskussionen: 7. Interdisziplinäres Doktorandenkolloquium zu antiken Kulturen, where I presented on executions of condemned criminals staged as mythological dramas in the Roman arena. Such executions are of interest to me as a parallel, but contrasting phenomenon to the mythological portraiture I am researching for my dissertation. In the talk, I wanted to focus on a certain paradox in mythological executions: that the condemned were cast not merely as monstrous or reviled figures, but even as some of the most revered heroes in the Roman world. Overall, I argued that whenever the condemned is cast as a ‘hero’, the mythological narrative is supplied with a striking an unorthodox plot twist which has the effect of ‘distancing’ the malefactors from this virtuous mythic identity. Figures such as Orpheus, Daedalus and Hercules, for instance, all have certain divinely-sanctioned rights which allow them to exceed the normal bounds for human behaviour, to even stare death in the face and yet survive unscathed, but which are of course denied to the average mortal. The condemned “actors’” inevitable failure to exercise these same rights, and to fulfill their dramatic roles, can only result in their death. Overall, the manner in which the condemned are executed symbolizes that they are by no means exempt from human and divine laws, and so must suffer for their transgressions accordingly. I found the conference in Darmstadt a unique and laid-back venue for doctoral students to discuss their research and receive feedback, and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Of course, I could not resist stopping at the Oktoberfest to drink a Maß (or three) on my way back to Athens…

I have been focused on several academic and personal goals since returning to Greece. As a PhD student specializing in visual culture from Rome and its environs – something which I often get flack for in Athens, even if jokingly – I want to use this opportunity to broaden my horizons. Despite my seemingly incurable case of wanderlust, I am actually exploring numerous of Greece’s major archaeological sites and museums for the first time. Whether heading to Sounion to check out the temple of Poseidon and then sleeping under the stars, or to Epidaurus to visit the sanctuary of Asklepios and then testing the acoustics of the theatre, I feel that I am finally acquiring a firsthand understanding of the monuments and topography of Greece. I have also travelled to Eleusis, Brauron, Thebes, Eleon, Napflio, Mycenae, Delphi, Meteora, Aegina, and Santorini… but the most memorable moment for me was in Thessaloniki, when I saw the Derveni Krater. This exquisite volute krater is adorned with scenes of Dionysos and Ariadne, along with satyrs and maenads in ecstatic frenzy.

Another personal goal I have set for myself this year is to learn some (Modern) Greek. I have therefore been taking lessons at the Athens Centre, with the wonderful Eleni as my instructor. Although I have a long way to go, so far learning Greek has been an interesting and rewarding experience for me. My time at the CIG has also allowed me to familiarize myself with the day-to-day operations of this research institute, and with the Canadian projects in Greece which the CIG endeavours to support. In addition to assisting in the library, I have been working on the ‘Portal to the Past’, which is a digital archive of our archaeological projects and research.

Most notably, the Neda and Franz Leipen Fellowship allows me to conduct research at world-renowned institutes for classical studies, such as the British School Library and the Blegen Library of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens. Since coming to Athens, I feel that I have able to focus and refine the research questions and methodologies for my dissertation “Portraits of Romans as Hercules and Omphale”, which has opened up some new avenues of inquiry for me. I suppose that the crux of my overall argument, so far at least, is this. Since the ancient textual sources invariably offer Hercules and Omphale as a negative exemplum for male and female behaviour, scholars tend to interpret images of Hercules and Omphale in a negative light, or even as Augustan counter-propaganda against Marcus Antonius and Kleopatra. I prefer, rather, to situate images of Hercules and Omphale within the Hellenistic iconographic tradition of “disarming love”, as yet another expression of the power of Eros. In terms of the mythological portraiture, Hercules and Omphale – as a symbol for 'the power of eros’ – were suitable models for spouses in an era which witnessed first of all a positive re-evaluation of eros in marriage, and secondly of andreia (i.e. ‘manliness’) in women, both of which contributed to harmonia between husband and wife. There were, however, clear limits to this identification; there is a deliberate avoidance of connotations seen to undermine Roman patriarchal values, and – in the end– a socially acceptable iconography for the portraiture was never adequately formulated. Portraits of men and women as Hercules and Omphale therefore remained exceptional in Roman visual culture as a whole.

I feel extremely fortunate to receive this fellowship and to experience so much in these short few months in Athens. I cannot neglect to mention the people at the CIG who have made me feel so welcome here. I would like to thank David for all his support, and for generally “putting up with me” (haha); Jonathan for making the office an enjoyable place to work, and for introducing us to the Red Lion and Excalibur (because a medieval castle with a dragon is always cool); and Tony for his endless encouragement (and fresh oranges of course). I would especially like to thank Vicki and Lauren for their friendship and for all our crazy adventures together – Athens will not be the same without them in the New Year, but I look forward to the times to come at the CIG!

Sarah Nash
Leipen Fellow, CIG

Friday, December 18, 2015

Holiday Recess

The eventful year 2015 is fast drawing to a conclusion and the unknowns of 2016 await us. At 13:00 today we are closing for our annual Holidays Recess. The Institute’s Office and Library will reopen on Monday, January 4th at 09:00. It should be noted that on Wednesday, January 6th we will be closed for Epiphany.

Only Metaxia, Romanos and I will be guarding the home fires here in Athens, as Jonathan and Amelie are spending the holidays in the UK, Sarah will be in Munich, and Vicki heads back to Ontario for her final semester at Wilfrid Laurier University.

Early in January we will send out the Institute’s Winter/Spring Lecture Program and the Program of Events of the Athens Association of Friends of the Institute. Both programs are full and varied.

We wish our members, friends and supporters a wonderful holiday season and we hope that the New Year will bring positive feelings, desired productivity, and good health to all!

Xaroumenes yiortes kai Kali Xronia!!!
David Rupp
Director

Friday, December 11, 2015

The Saxon Architect Ernst Ziller as Greek Archaeologist

The German architect Ernst Ziller (1837-1923) is noted for designing over 500 buildings in Athens, Piraeus and elsewhere in Greece. He first came to Greece in 1859 to assist the Danish architect Theophilos Hansen on the Academy of Athens building project financed by Baron Sinas. As with others from northern Europe he quickly fell under the aura of “Classical Greece”. In the course of his long career in Greece from 1869 onward his buildings were the catalyst for the formation of the “Neoclassical Style” in later 19th- and earlier 20th-century Greek architecture.

Ziller was an excellent draftsman and artist. He visited ancient sites (the Akropolis, the Classical Agora, the choragic monument of Lysikrates, the temple at Aphaia on Aigina) to make detailed architectural drawings in order to understand ancient Greek architecture. To learn even more he also conducted excavations. In order to reconstruct the Panathenaic Stadium on the Ilissos river bank he excavated the hollow there between 1862 and 1864. In the theater of Dionysios Eleutherios he also worked in order to determine its architectural form.

The Archive of the National Art Gallery has the architectural drawings of Ziller. Dr. Marilena Kassimati a well-known researcher at the National Art Gallery will give a lecture on Monday, December 14th entitled, «Ο Σάξων αρχιτέκτων Ερνέστος Τσίλλερ ως "αρχαιολόγος" της πρώτης ώρας στην Αθήνα». Ziller’s interest in antiquity was not sterile and pedantic, or indifferent to his era’s requirements, but, on the contrary, exceeded his conventional role as an architect and approached antiquity to gain tangible results. Dr. Kassimati’s lecture based on the Ziller Archives will explore most of his research projects in archaeology. The Botosakis Foundation is sponsoring the videotaping of this fascinating lecture.

For this lecture sponsored by the Syllogos Filon tou Istorikou Archeiou tis Archaiologikis Yperesias the venue will be the National Archive of Monuments’ Amphitheater at the corner of Ay. Asomaton 21 and Psaromylingou 21 on the cusp of the Kerameikos and the Psyrri Districts. The Theseio train station is the closest stop on the Metro system. The public is most welcome!

Cordially,
David Rupp
Director

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

The Fred Winter Collection

Belevi mausoleum, partly finished Corinthian capital (Professor Fred Winter, 1966)