Friday, June 12, 2026

Sur la route des cités antiques du Péloponnèse / On the road through the Ancient cities of the Peloponnese

Après ce premier chapitre riche en découvertes athéniennes, il était temps pour nous de poursuivre l’aventure au‑delà de la capitale. Le séjour ne faisait en effet que commencer : une seconde partie tout aussi passionnante nous attendait de l’autre côté du canal de Corinthe, au cœur du Péloponnèse, terre de mythes, de paysages grandioses et de sites archéologiques parmi les plus célèbres du monde grec. C’est donc avec enthousiasme que nous avons quitté Athènes pour prendre la route, prêts à explorer cette région emblématique et à vivre de nouvelles expériences, entre visites, apprentissages et moments partagés.

After this first chapter filled with Athenian discoveries, it was time for us to continue the adventure beyond the capital. The trip was only just beginning: a second, equally fascinating part awaited us on the other side of the Corinth Canal, in the heart of the Peloponnese, a land of myths, breathtaking landscapes, and some of the most famous archaeological sites in the Greek world. With great enthusiasm, we left Athens and hit the road, ready to explore this emblematic region and experience new moments of learning, discovery, and shared memories.

Nous avons commencé par Éleusis, haut lieu des Mystères antiques, dont l’atmosphère solennelle a immédiatement plongé le groupe dans une autre dimension. Puis, cap sur Corinthe et l’impressionnante Acrocorinthe, dont les remparts perchés offrent une vue spectaculaire sur l’isthme et les montagnes environnantes.

We began with Eleusis, the sacred center of the ancient Mysteries, whose solemn atmosphere immediately transported the group into another dimension. Then we headed toward Corinth and the impressive Acrocorinth, whose hilltop walls offer spectacular views over the isthmus and the surrounding mountains.

La suite du voyage nous a menés à Mycènes et Tyrinthe, où les murailles cyclopéennes ont rappelé à quel point les héros homériques savaient voir grand. Le château de Palamède à Nauplie, avec ses escaliers interminables et son panorama sur la baie, a offert un mélange parfait entre défi sportif et récompense visuelle. À Épidaure, l’acoustique du théâtre a, comme toujours, impressionné tout le monde.

The journey then took us to Mycenae and Tiryns, where the cyclopean walls reminded us just how grand the Homeric heroes envisioned their world. The Palamidi fortress in Nafplio, with its endless stairs and sweeping views over the bay, offered the perfect blend of physical challenge and visual reward. In Epidaurus, the acoustics of the theater impressed everyone, as always.

Le séjour a aussi été ponctué de moments plus ludiques, notamment nos fameuses courses “olympiques” : d’abord sur la piste antique de Némée, puis à Messène, avant de terminer en beauté à Olympie, là où tout a commencé il y a près de trois millénaires. Entre deux visites, nous avons également découvert un vignoble de la région de Némée, l’occasion parfaite de goûter aux spécialités locales dans une ambiance détendue.

The trip was also punctuated by lighter moments, including our now‑famous “Olympic” races: first on the ancient track of Nemea, then in Messene, before ending in style at Olympia, where it all began nearly three millennia ago. Between visits, we also explored a vineyard in the Nemea region, the perfect opportunity to taste local specialties in a relaxed atmosphere.

Notre route nous a ensuite conduits à Sparte et au château byzantin de Mystras, véritable ville médiévale figée dans le temps, avant de rejoindre le palais de Nestor, l’un des rares complexes mycéniens encore lisibles dans son organisation. Enfin, Delphes, au pied du mont Parnasse, a offert une conclusion grandiose à cette traversée du Péloponnèse.

Our route then led us to Sparta and the Byzantine fortress of Mystras, a true medieval city frozen in time, before reaching the Palace of Nestor, one of the rare Mycenaean complexes whose layout remains clearly readable. Finally, Delphi, at the foot of Mount Parnassus, offered a grand conclusion to this journey across the Peloponnese.

De retour en Attique, notre périple s’est achevé par deux sites emblématiques : le temple de Poséidon au cap Sounion, dominant la mer Égée, et le sanctuaire de Brauron, dédié à Artémis. Deux lieux où paysages et archéologie se répondent, parfaits pour conclure ce chapitre du voyage.

Back in Attica, our trip ended with two emblematic sites: the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, overlooking the Aegean Sea, and the sanctuary of Brauron, dedicated to Artemis. Two places where landscape and archaeology echo one another, perfect for closing this chapter of the journey.

Friday, June 5, 2026

A fond farewell: Looking back at my time at the Canadian Institute

Looking back on my year as the Neda and Franz Leipen Fellow at the Canadian Institute in Greece, I am incredibly grateful for all the opportunities and experiences I’ve had.

My main focus this academic year has been completing revisions on my PhD dissertation. As a bit of a recap, my research examines the consumption and production of pottery in the countryside of the ancient city of Metaponto in southern Italy. I developed a revised typology for the important black gloss pottery from the countryside, while simultaneously studying patterns of settlement in the chora in order to better understand how ancient inhabitants lived in and exploited the landscape. With the resources of the various libraries in Athens, I have been able to finish the revisions for my dissertation, and I now look forward to a defence this summer.

In addition to my dissertation work, I have been trying to develop new research projects while here in Greece. In March, I had the opportunity to present some of my new ideas as part of the CIG’s spring lecture program. My talk looked specifically at rural sanctuaries as nodes of social and economic activity in the countryside, and I benefitted greatly from the constructive feedback of the audience. I am grateful to be part of such a supportive and intellectually stimulating community of classicists and archaeologists in Athens.

In April, my parents visited Greece for the first time, and I had the pleasure of playing tour-guide for them. It was really special to lead them around the Acropolis and the Agora, and to visit some of my favourite restaurants in Athens (shoutout to Mavro Provato!). From Athens we took a ferry to Mykonos to explore some of the Cyclades. Delos and Naxos were particular highlights for me – the abandoned kouroi in the Naxian landscape are a must-see! We ended our trip with several days in Nafplio, which is such a wonderful place to visit in the Spring. We ate incredible food, shopped for souvenirs, and made daytrips to Mycenae, Nemea, and Tiryns.  

There is much that I will miss after the fellowship ends, including living in Athens and attending academic and cultural events. Most of all, I will miss my friends and our daily coffee breaks, Pickleball Sundays, and brewery trips. I am very lucky to have had such a wonderful community around me during this experience. For them, and for Athens itself, this is not goodbye, but until next time.

Eric Del Fabbro
Neda and Franz Leipen Fellow 2025-2026